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Lustgarten
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Your walk begins at the fountain in the Lustgarten, once a royal herb garden, then a parade ground, and a stage for Nazi rallies and Cold War protests. Rory sets the scene on the square that has long been Berlin’s seat of power, ringed by the Altes Museum, Berlin Cathedral and the rebuilt palace.
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Berliner Dom
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Berlin Cathedral’s great green dome towers over the Lustgarten. Completed in 1905 for Kaiser Wilhelm II, it was the Hohenzollerns’ answer to St Peter’s in Rome. Bombed in the war and restored only in 1993, it holds royal tombs in its crypt, and a climb to the dome gives sweeping views over the city.
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Stadtschloss Berlin
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For 500 years the Hohenzollerns ruled from this palace. Damaged in the war, it was blown up by East Germany’s communists in 1950 and replaced by their Palace of the Republic. Rory tells how Berlin argued, demolished again and rebuilt the baroque facades, now home to the Humboldt Forum museum.
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Schlossbrucke
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Designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel and lined with eight marble statues of warriors guided by goddesses, the Palace Bridge carried kings and parades between the palace and Unter den Linden. Pause in the middle for one of the best views along the Spree, then follow Rory along the Kupfergraben canal.
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The pink baroque Zeughaus is Unter den Linden’s oldest building, built as Prussia’s royal arsenal. Rory explores old, military Berlin and the legacy of its soldier kings. Today it houses the German Historical Museum. Look for the carved masks of dying warriors in the courtyard.
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Friedrichswerdersche Kirche
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On Werderscher Markt stands Schinkel’s red-brick Friedrichswerder Church, one of Berlin’s first neo-Gothic buildings. Rory explains how Schinkel, Prussia’s master architect, shaped the city around you. Restored after years of closure, it now displays 19th-century sculpture.
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Altes Museum
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Opened in 1830, Schinkel’s Altes Museum was one of Europe’s first public museums, built so ordinary Prussians could enjoy art once kept for kings. Its 18 Ionic columns face the Lustgarten like a Greek temple. Inside are Greek, Etruscan and Roman treasures and a Pantheon-style rotunda.
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Neues Museum
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Bombed in the war and left a ruin for 60 years, the Neues Museum was brilliantly restored by David Chipperfield, who kept its scars on show. It is home to the bust of Nefertiti, the Berlin Golden Hat and the Museum of Prehistory and Early History. Watch out for pickpockets at the busy entrance.
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Alte Nationalgalerie
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Raised on a high plinth like a temple and crowned by an equestrian statue of Friedrich Wilhelm IV, the Old National Gallery holds 19th-century masterpieces by Caspar David Friedrich, Monet, Manet and Menzel. Its colonnaded garden, between the museums, is a peaceful spot to sit and take in the island.
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Pergamonmuseum
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Berlin’s most famous museum was built for monumental treasures from the ancient Middle East, including the Pergamon Altar and Babylon’s Ishtar Gate. Your tour ends nearby on Bodestraße. Note: the main building is closed for renovation and is due to reopen in stages from 2027.